Our cruise ship docked close to Fengdu where the famous “Ghost City” is found. This is where the Chinese believe the souls of the dead go. It is situated about 170 kilometers downstream from Chongqing on the north bank of the Yangtze River.
Walking up those steps from the boat to the road I thought I might actually pass out from the heat. Already the sweat was dripping down my back and this was only the start of our day. I was quite relieved that we took a little bus up the rest of the hill to the entrance of the Ghost City.
We had a great guide who took us through the whole Ghost City and had us partake in all the little customs along the way. We were all soaked in sweat after climbing up the 700 steps that lead to the City entrance. I thought I would pass out before we even reached the first temple. Here my mom decided that the heat was just too much for her and that she didn’t think she would be able to continue through the rest of the Ghost Town. So we left her at the first temple where she could sit and recuperate with an ice-cold ice-cream. The rest of us continued our hot adventure through the Ghost City.
The city has numerous buildings, structures, dioramas, and statues related to Diyu, the concept of the underworld and hell (or Naraka) in Chinese mythology and Buddhism. It is modelled to resemble Youdu, the capital of the dead. Having nearly two thousand years’ history, the Ghost City combines the cultures of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism with the mystique of ghosts and is filled with a spooky sense of the past.
Its origin story begins back in the Han Dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE), when two officials decided to run away to the area and live out their lives, where they eventually according to the legend, became immortal. Yin and Wang, the names of the officials, were combined during a later dynasty to mean “King of the Underworld.”
This City displays lots of demonic images and torture devices and reflects the notion that good people will be treated well in the afterlife and that bad people will be punished by going to hell.
In the Chinese vision of the afterlife, the dead must undergo three major tests to enter the netherworld. These tests are taken at three locations – Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge;Ghost Torturing Pass and the Tianzi (son of heaven) Palace.
Test one:Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge:
Built during the Ming Dynasty, the bridge connects the nether world with the real world and is a testing point for good and evil. According to legend, the Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge is composed on three identical stone arches. The middle arch is used for testing people. There are different protocols for crossing the bridge depending on your gender, age and marital status. Below the bridge are square-shaped pools of water. Virtuous people will pass over the bridge without obstacle; villainous people will fall into the pools below. The other two arches are called the golden and silver bridges respectively. When preparing to leave, visitors are encouraged to pass these two bridges because according to local superstition this will bring them good fortune.
Test two : Ghost Torturing Pass:
It is the second test before entry into the netherworld. It is said that this is the place where the dead report to the Yama, the King of Hell, for judgment. In front of the structure there are eighteen sculptures depicting ferocious demons. Each of these devils is quite lifelike creating a feeling of true eeriness.
We were told that here you had to choose what you want to be born as in your next life, male or female. If you walked through the archway right foot first you will be born a woman, left foot fist you will be a man in your next life. Jump through with both feet and you will be born in Thailand!!
Test three: Tianzi Palace:
The palace is the nerve center of this scenic area and is the oldest and largest temple on Ming Mountain. The third test to evade hell takes place at a large stone in front of the gate. The ghost must stand on this round stone on one foot for three minutes. A good person will be able to do this while an evil one can not and will be sent to hell. We all got to try this and unfortunately my balancing skills are definitely lacking as I couldn’t even make 20 seconds.
One other ghostly attraction in Fengdu worth mentioning is the Last-Glance at Home Tower. This structure was built in 1985 and commemorates the site where spirits consigned to hell could take one last look at their families.
This “City” is definitely filled with marvelous structures that show the skill that ancient craftsman had. I was amazed by the unique styles of architecture and the culture of the “ghost”. Whatever your beliefs, here you are constantly reminded that the “Good will be rewarded with good, and evil with evil.”
The giant face seen in the hill is called “The Ghost King,” and it holds a Guinness World Records title as the biggest sculpture carved on a rock. At 138 meters tall and about 217 meters wide, “The Ghost King” can be seen from all around the city.
If it wasn’t for the extreme heat and humidity of that day I would have spent more time walking around the extensive grounds and exploring all the different temples.
Janaline's world journey 
Did you jump through with both feet? 😉 What an interesting place. I’m not superstitious, but I think the hair might stand up on the back of my neck in a few places here! Wonderful post, as always.
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I had loads of fun here. Nope didn’t jump over with both feet, I opted to come back as a man…try out peeing while standing in my next life!😄
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Fascinating information and lovely photos! Thanks for sharing!
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I can feel the sweat. Isn’t Chongqing called one of China’s five furnaces? I’ve been to China in August and don’t think I’ve ever experienced such flattening heat. Interesting to experience the gates of hell in such a climate!
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Love this post. We didn’t get to tour here, so you’ve helped me envision what I missed! Glad to meet you. Thanks for liking my blog, Oh, the Places We See! http://ohtheplaceswesee.com
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Thank you for sharing information about this fascinating place. I didn’t know it existed!
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So colourful and vibrant!
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I agree, the whole place is very colourful, it gioves it a very cheerful look although its the way to the underworld?!
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I found this post super interesting!!! I do not know anything about Chinese culture, and I am ashamed of it! Thanks for your explanations!!!!
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Thank you! Dont worry, the Chinese culture has so many different assets that I think it is quite difficult to even know half of all their customs. I find it is a very interesting and colourful culture and loved learning more about it.
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So colourful…Nice photos..
I think the Chinese and Hindu mythology are pretty similar. The God in charge of hell is “Yama” in Hindu mythology as well.
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I find the Chinese and Hindu mythology very interesting and love hearing all the myths that go with different places and things.
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Great post and great pictures! I really love the pictures from your Kyoto post too, that is one place I would love to visit.
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Thank you! If you ever get the chance I would definitely recommend Kyoto, it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen in Asia!!
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Beautiful colours, looks an amazing place
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It is a fabulous place Ian. I think such hard work went into the decorating of this place.
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This is a fantastic post. I am really impressed with how kept up the temples are. they seem bright and newly painted and very clean. Great story line.
Ron
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Thanks! i agree, the grounds are well kept and the buildings so colourful!
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The buildings are so beautiful.
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I agree Colline, I love the detail and colour of the place, it actually gives this creepy place a cheerful look!
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Amazing Photographs and description !
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Thank you! It was such a fabulous place and interesting insight into the Chinese culture
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Fascinating tour without suffering the heat and some brilliant shots. p.s.In Tai Chi I practice standing on one foot so I might make it by the time I’m a ghost though I like the sound of the first test of Nothing to be Done
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Thanks Laura! I better start practicing as I now know where I will fail, but agree, the first two tests are actually a lot of fun to do!
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Looks like an amazing place- China is such a big place and I havent made it anywhere near it at all as yet.. one day……
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I hope you get to explore China it has so many hidden treasures!
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One day.. 🙂
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That’s alot of steps! Great post though 🙂 lovely bright pictures.
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Thanks Lily! Was a fabulous place to explore!
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A very colourful place this City of the Dead. Doesn’t seem to be teeming with people, too hot I guess. The Ghost King looks like a remarkable structure and those stone demons must have taken a lot of sculpting; looks as if they are going a trifle mouldy.
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It was an amazing place and if it wasnt for the heat I am sure it would have been very crowded. Yes, it looks like nature is slowly taking hold of the statues
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Love this! 🙂
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Thank you!!
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I remember that place… and the steps too. I guess I can show off now and claim to have walked up more than you, lol. When I went there, the dam was still a year or more away from completion 🙂
I also remember our guide at that very place, George. A real cheeky chappy little Chinese guy who loved his job.
Thanks for bringing back my memories!
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It is an amazing place and glad you got to explore it aswell. I am glad we didnt have any more stairs to walk in that heat…it was a torturous summer!!
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Yeah, it was a bit cooler for us, mid September as it happens, back in 2002.
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